The Acid Rules : When To Exfoliate, When To Stop

The fastest way to make skin look worse is to over-exfoliate. We see it constantly. Skin that's been polished raw is mistaken for skin that needs more product. It needs less. Knowing when to stop is the entire skill.

Acids are tools, not habits. They work in cycles. Three weeks on, one week off. We design our exfoliating range for the cycle, not the daily.

The OVESSI point of view

The three families, briefly

AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic) are water-soluble. They work on the surface of skin, dissolving the bonds that hold dead cells together. Best for tone, dullness, fine surface texture.

BHAs (salicylic) are oil-soluble. They penetrate into the pore. Best for congestion, blackheads, and oily skin.

Physical exfoliants work mechanically with fine particles. Useful in the right places, ruinous in the wrong ones.

The acid ritual, three speeds

The daily polish, gentlest

The Sweep : Glycolic Exfoliating Toner on a cotton pad, evenings only, three to four times a week. Avoid the eye area. This is the gentlest, most forgiving introduction.

The weekly resurfacer, stronger

The Polish : Resurfacing Kojic Exfoliator once a week, sixty seconds, in small circles. Kojic acid adds a quiet brightening edge to the polish.

The treatment peel, monthly

The Surface : AHA Peeling Concentrate as a leave-on treatment, once every two to three weeks. Five minutes. Rinse. Do not stack with retinol, vitamin C, or other acids that week.

The physical option, when it actually helps

The Grain : Volcanic Face & Body Scrub works on the body more than the face. Knees, elbows, the back. On the face, use it sparingly, on areas of rough texture only. Never on active blemishes. The volcanic grain is fine, but the rule of "less is more" applies twice over here.

The signals to stop, immediately

Burning that doesn't fade in thirty seconds. A new sensitivity to products that used to feel fine. A glassy, almost reflective sheen that doesn't match the rest of your face. Tightness within minutes of cleansing. If you recognise any of these, stop all acids for two weeks and run the barrier rebuild.

What never to do

Mix acids and retinol on the same night. Stack two different acids in the same session. Exfoliate on the day of a peel or a facial. Use acids in the morning without SPF. Try a new acid before a holiday, an event, or a photograph.

The rule, simply

Exfoliation is the discipline of restraint. The right cycle is three weeks on, one week off. The right frequency, for most people, is three to four nights a week. The right reaction is a smoother surface, not a stripped one. If the result is the second, you've gone too far.