Niacinamide (B3)

Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble molecule that the skin absorbs readily and uses across multiple cellular pathways. It strengthens the barrier by stimulating ceramide synthesis, reduces melanin transfer to even tone, and calms inflammation through gentle inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators.

What it actually does

Niacinamide works at the level of the stratum corneum and epidermis, where it supports the synthesis of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. These lipids form the mortar between corneocytes, the flat dead cells that make up the outermost layer of skin. When this lipid matrix is intact, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) stays low and the barrier holds firm. Niacinamide also interferes with melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, which means less pigment reaches the surface layer. This mechanism underlies its ability to soften the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and general unevenness.

Beyond barrier and tone, niacinamide moderates sebum production and reduces the activity of enzymes that degrade collagen. It is considered well-tolerated across skin types, though concentrations above ten percent can sometimes provoke flushing in sensitive individuals. The molecule is stable in most formulations and plays well with acids, retinoids, and peptides, making it a quiet workhorse in layered rituals.

The OVESSI point of view

We draw on Korean layered care, where niacinamide has long been valued not as a star ingredient but as a supporting player that elevates everything around it. It sits in serums, moisturisers, and ampoules, working across the ritual without demanding solo attention. This fits our Scandinavian restraint pillar: we prefer ingredients that do real work without theatre. In our formulations, niacinamide appears at three to five percent, a dose that delivers barrier and tone benefits without risking irritation or flushing. We pair it with exosomes, peptides, and ceramides to reinforce its lipid-building action. The molecule's water solubility means it layers thin and absorbs fast, which aligns with our belief that effective skincare should feel like nothing at all. French editorial luxury teaches us that true refinement lies in invisible efficacy, and niacinamide embodies that principle.

What to expect, and when

In the first week, you may notice that your skin feels softer to the touch and holds moisture longer between applications. This is the barrier beginning to reinforce itself. By day fourteen, early signs of unevenness, small patches of dullness or faint post-inflammatory marks, may start to look less pronounced. Full tone improvement takes longer: around day twenty-eight, you might see a subtle levelling of pigment where darkness was concentrated. Niacinamide will not erase deep hyperpigmentation or change your skin's inherent tone. It will not shrink pores permanently or stop sebum production entirely. What it does offer is a gradual, quiet improvement in barrier integrity and a slow reduction in the contrast between light and dark areas. Expect steady progress, not transformation. If you see no change by week six, the concern may require a different approach.

How to layer it in your ritual

Niacinamide fits into the treat step, after cleanse and tone, before you seal with oils or richer creams. Because it is water-soluble, it absorbs quickly and does not leave a film. You can layer it under peptides, hyaluronic acid, or retinoids without issue. In the morning, apply it after toner and before sunscreen. At night, use it before heavier repair serums or ceramide-rich moisturisers. If you are layering multiple actives, niacinamide goes on early in the sequence, closest to clean skin. It works well for all skin types, though those with very sensitive skin should start at three percent and watch for flushing. Oily and combination skin benefit from its sebum-moderating action. Dry skin gains barrier support. Apply it consistently, every day, to see the full benefit over weeks.

Where it lives on our shelf

We formulate with niacinamide at doses that respect skin tolerance while delivering real barrier and tone support. You will find it in The Even : Niacinamide Gel Moisturiser, a lightweight hydrator that layers thin and absorbs fast, designed for daily use across all skin types. It also anchors The Mend : Exosome & Niacinamide Recovery Serum, where we pair it with exosomes and peptides to accelerate barrier repair after stress or irritation. Both formulations reflect our belief that niacinamide works best when it is woven quietly into the architecture of a ritual, not spotlighted as a solo act.

Common questions

Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C? Yes, the old incompatibility concern was based on outdated chemistry; modern formulations handle both without issue.

Will niacinamide make my skin lighter? No, it reduces the transfer of melanin to surface cells, which can soften unevenness, but it does not bleach or alter your natural tone.

How much niacinamide do I need? Three to five percent is enough for barrier and tone benefits; higher doses do not necessarily improve results and may increase the risk of flushing.

Reviewed by

Danny Isaac, Head of Product Development, OVESSI.
Last reviewed: June 2026.

Further reading

A short, curated set of references where the science behind this page is documented in peer-reviewed literature.

1. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 10971324.
2. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180.
3. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. PMID: 16029679.